Guide · Print & production
What Is a Print-Ready File? Bleed, CMYK, Fonts and PDF/X for Pakistani Printers
By Kashif RehmanPublished 17 September 2026Updated 17 September 20269 min read
Short answer
A print-ready file is one the press can print without changing anything. It is in CMYK, sized to the final trim with 3 mm of bleed, has text kept inside a safe zone, uses images at the right resolution for the medium, has fonts converted to curves or embedded, and is exported as PDF/X-1a or a clean CDR the shop agreed to.
Many of the printing problems I see start with a file that looked right on a laptop and then met the press shop: a white hairline along the edge of a visiting card, an Urdu headline that turned into boxes, a green logo that printed muddy. Every one of these is avoidable before the file leaves your computer.
This is the checklist I run before sending anything to print, from visiting cards and wedding cards to panaflex. It is written for clients who want to understand what their designer is doing, and for junior designers who are about to send their first job to a press in Lahore, Islamabad or Karachi.
What are bleed and safe zone, and why do printers ask for them?
Printers do not print on the exact card size. They print on a larger sheet, then cut it down. The cutting blade is never perfectly accurate, especially when it goes through a stack of a few hundred cards at once. It can move a millimetre or two either way.
Bleed is extra artwork that extends past the trim line. If your background colour or photo stops exactly at the edge and the blade cuts slightly outside, you get a thin white line. With bleed, the blade cuts into artwork instead.
Safe zone is the margin inside the trim line where nothing important should sit. If the blade cuts slightly inside, text placed right at the edge gets clipped.
Bleed and safe zone starting points
| Item | Trim size | Bleed per side | Safe zone inside trim |
|---|---|---|---|
| Visiting card | 3.5 × 2 in (about 89 × 51 mm) | 3 mm | 3–4 mm |
| PVC / ID card | 54 × 86 mm (CR80) | 2–3 mm, ask the shop | 3 mm |
| A4 letterhead or flyer | 210 × 297 mm | 3 mm | 5 mm |
| Brochure (A4 tri-fold) | 297 × 210 mm flat | 3 mm | 5 mm, plus space at folds |
| Wedding card | varies | 3–5 mm | 5 mm |
| Panaflex | by the foot | ask the printer | keep text away from eyelet and frame edges |
In CorelDraw, set bleed under Document Properties and turn on "Show bleed" so you can see it. In Illustrator, bleed is set in the document setup dialog. In both, extend background colours and images all the way out to the bleed line.

Should my file be in CMYK or RGB?
For print, CMYK. Screens make colour with red, green and blue light. Printing presses make colour with cyan, magenta, yellow and black ink. The range of colours ink can produce is smaller than what a screen can show, particularly for bright greens, electric blues and saturated oranges.
If you design in RGB and send it to a press, one of two things happens. The shop's software converts it to CMYK automatically, and the bright colours shift to whatever is nearest. Or the operator converts it by hand with their own settings. Either way, you do not control the result.
Set the document to CMYK before you start. In Photoshop, change the image mode and watch what happens to bright colours before you commit to them. If a client's logo is a vivid RGB green, show them a CMYK version on screen early, so the printed result is not a surprise.
Screen colour is never an exact preview of print. Most local shop monitors are not calibrated, and neither are most laptops. Treat the screen as a guide and the printed proof as the truth.
What is rich black?
A black area printed with only K (black ink at 100%) often looks slightly grey and washed out on large areas, especially on coated paper. Rich black adds some cyan, magenta and yellow underneath to make it deeper. A common mix is around C40 M30 Y30 K100, though some printers prefer C60 M40 Y40 K100.
Use rich black for large backgrounds. Do not use it for small text. On small type, the four inks may not line up perfectly on the press, and letters get coloured fringes. Body text, fine lines and small numbers should stay 100% K only.
Also watch the total ink. If you add up the four values, most presses want the total under about 300%. A "black" made of C100 M100 Y100 K100 is 400% and can smudge, dry slowly and stick sheets together.
What resolution do images need: 300 ppi or less?
For paper items held in the hand, such as cards, brochures, letterheads and file covers, aim for about 300 ppi at the final printed size. A photo that is 300 ppi at A6 is not 300 ppi when you stretch it across an A3 poster.
Panaflex works differently because people view it from a distance. The table below gives working ranges. Confirm with the printer, because their software and machines have limits on file size too.
| Output | Typical viewing distance | Working resolution at final size |
|---|---|---|
| Visiting cards, wedding cards, brochures | in hand | around 300 ppi |
| Posters (A3, A2) | 1–2 metres | 150–300 ppi |
| Standees, indoor panaflex | 2–5 metres | 100–150 ppi |
| Shop boards, road-side panaflex | across a road or more | 30–100 ppi |
A 20 × 10 ft panaflex at 300 ppi would be an enormous file that most shop computers will struggle to open, and it will not look sharper from across the road. Vector artwork (logos, text, shapes) stays sharp at any size, so keep those as vectors and only worry about resolution for photos and textures.

How do I handle fonts, especially Urdu fonts?
Fonts are the most common reason a file prints differently from what you approved. If the press computer does not have the font you used, the software substitutes another one. English text changes shape and line breaks move. Urdu text is worse: Nastaliq fonts such as Jameel Noori Nastaleeq may be missing, and substitution can break the joins between letters or show empty boxes.
The fix is to convert text to outlines before sending:
- In CorelDraw, select the text and use Convert to Curves (Ctrl+Q).
- In Illustrator, use Create Outlines (Shift+Ctrl+O).
- In Photoshop, text inside a flattened image is already pixels, but check the size is large enough to stay crisp.
Keep an editable copy with live text for yourself. Once converted, you cannot fix a spelling mistake without retyping, so do a final spelling check in both Urdu and English first. For Urdu, have someone who reads it well check the proof. Designers who do not read Urdu fluently can miss a wrong letter or a broken ligature.
If you are sending a PDF, fonts can be embedded instead of outlined. For Urdu I still convert to curves, because not every RIP handles embedded Nastaliq fonts the same way.

Should I send PDF/X-1a or a CDR file?
PDF/X-1a is a strict PDF standard made for handing files to a press. It requires all colour to be CMYK or spot colours, all fonts embedded, and transparency flattened. When a shop accepts it, it is the safest format, because what you exported is what prints. Both Illustrator and CorelDraw can export PDF/X-1a directly from their PDF export settings.
PDF/X-4 is a newer standard that allows live transparency and colour-managed files. It is good for modern workflows, but some older RIP software in local shops handles it less predictably, so I default to X-1a unless the printer asks for X-4.
Why do local presses in Pakistan ask for CDR?
Walk into most press and panaflex shops in KP and Punjab and you will find CorelDraw on the counter computer. Operators are used to opening CDR files, adjusting the layout to fit their sheet, adding crop marks, and ganging several jobs onto one sheet to save paper. A PDF feels locked to them, and in a sense it is.
That habit is not going away soon, so work with it:
- Ask the shop which CorelDraw version they use, and save your file in that version or older. A file saved in a new version will not open in an old one.
- Convert all text to curves.
- Embed images inside the file instead of linking to them from your computer.
- Delete unused objects, hidden layers and anything outside the page.
- Send a PDF of the same design with the CDR, so the operator has a reference and you have proof of what you sent.
The PDF reference matters. If something shifts during the shop's layout step, you can compare it against what you approved.
Checklist
Print-ready file checklist
- Document set to the exact trim size the printer confirmed
- 3 mm bleed on all sides (or the shop's number), with backgrounds extended to it
- Text and logos inside the safe zone
- Colour mode CMYK, with brand colours as written CMYK values
- Rich black only on large areas; small text in 100% K
- Total ink under about 300%
- Photos at around 300 ppi for paper, lower for panaflex as agreed
- All text converted to curves, Urdu especially, after a final spelling check
- Images embedded, not linked
- Exported as PDF/X-1a, or CDR saved in the shop's version with a reference PDF
- File name includes the job, size and version, e.g. letterhead-A4-v3.pdf
What kind of proof should I ask for?
A digital proof is a PDF or screenshot you approve on screen. It catches spelling, layout and missing elements. It does not show true colour.
A hard proof is a single printed sample on the actual paper or flex before the full run. It is the only way to see how colours come out on that machine. For a run of a few hundred visiting cards, a digital proof is usually enough. For wedding cards, brochures in large quantity, packaging, or any job where a brand colour matters, ask for a hard proof, even if it adds a day.
Offset presses also drift during a run as ink levels change, so a large job can vary slightly from the first sheet to the last. If colour is critical, ask the printer whether you can check sheets during the run.

Printing costs vary widely between cities and shops, and change with paper and ink prices. Get a written quote that names the paper or flex type, quantity, finish and delivery date before you approve the file, and confirm the file format the printer wants at the same time. Asking that one question at the start saves most of the problems in this article.
FAQ
Questions people ask.
How much bleed should I add for printing in Pakistan?
Add 3 mm of bleed on every side for cards, brochures, letterheads and posters. Some shops ask for 5 mm on items cut in large stacks, such as wedding cards, because the blade drifts through the pile. For panaflex, ask the printer, since eyelets, pole pockets and frames need their own extra margin rather than a standard bleed.
Why does my printed design look duller than on screen?
Screens mix light in RGB and can show brighter greens, blues and oranges than ink on paper can reach. When the file is converted to CMYK, those colours move to the nearest printable value. Design in CMYK from the start, avoid relying on neon colours, and ask for a printed proof before a large run.
Should I send a CDR file or a PDF to the printer?
Send a PDF/X-1a when the shop accepts it, because it locks fonts, colours and layout. Many local presses still ask for CDR because they edit files on their own machines. If you send CDR, save it in an older version the shop can open, convert all text to curves, embed images, and send a PDF alongside for reference.
What resolution do I need for panaflex?
Much less than for paper. Brochures and cards need around 300 ppi at final size. Panaflex viewed from several feet away usually looks fine at 72 to 150 ppi at final size, and very large road-side boards can go lower. Check with the printer, because their RIP software and file size limits also matter.
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